J.B. Taylor

To those who love to bid, we salute you.

There are two very ooh-la-la worthy auctions of vintage garb occurring his month . . . Leslie Hindman held  the first of which, yesterday in Chicago, and here are some of my pics from the gargantuan selection (click to view full):
 

(L to R): 1920s Art Deco gold lamé opera coat, Thea Porter burnt sienna chiffon Moroccan dress c.early 1970s, silk "Adonis" crepe day dress by 1940s couturier Valentina (who was for a time Garbo's stylist), 1980s silk Yves Saint Laurent wrap dress.
 
(L) Yves Saint Laurent silver cuff of my dreams (era unknown) (R) Zandra Rhodes black silk beaded gown c.1980s

(L to R): Black double breasted Alaia coat c.1990s, 12 bound volumes of Vogue c.1961 from photographer Bert Stern's private library, surreal Moschino clock dress c.1980/90s.

The second eye-dazzling auction will be held on Sept. 15th in Dulwich, U.K. by Kerry Taylor, and it is a doozie . . . treasures from the 1800s through the 1980s, from the personal archives of British Vogue editor and genius film costumer Marit Allen. This one will be especially hard on the wallets of those who collect garb from the '60s British boutique movement. See for yourself:

(L to R): Mary Quant Ginger Group mini c.1960s, 1970s chevron patterned Biba ensemble, Mary Quant baby-doll smocks c.1960s.

Kansai Yamamoto blazer with strawberry buttons c.1970, portrait of Marit Allen for a story entitled "Young Ideas All Dolled Up" shot by David Bailey for Vogue's April 1964 issue, Ossie Clark knitted cardigan c.1970s.

A pair of fabulous 1930s kimonos, psychedelic bias-cut John Kloss crepe-mini c.1965, pair of  rustic linen 19th cent. smock dresses.

Chevron striped Biba coat c.1970s, Biba cotton sun-dress c.1970s, Pirate Collection shirt from Vivienne Westwood's World's End boutique c.1981-82, felted wool circle coat by Zandra Rhodes c.1968

Portraits of Marit taken by David Bailey for Vogue in 1964, including one where she is holding a sculpture by collectible paper maché artist (and Anna Sui obsession) Gemma Taccogna.

One thing leads to another.

While snooping around on eBay, I spotted several vintage items that caused me to recall some favorite fashion moments from the past. If you'd love to emulate any of these looks, some of the auctions are still live, so be sure to have your bidding finger ready:


(Above, L) Brass Arts & Crafts-era headpiece with foiled art glass (sold for $685 by gungirly) (R) Byzantine Head: The Blonde, c.1897 by Alphonse Mucha

(L) White 1940s beaded evening gown with front-slit (current bid at $25) (R) Winona Ryder wearing nearly the same vintage gown at the 1994 Academy Awards.

(L) Italian 1970s woven raffia and wooden bead bag (sold for $19.99 by silverfreak) (R) Jane Fonda as super-chic call-girl Bree Daniels in the 1971 film, Klute.

(L) 1960s python-print palazzo jumpsuit by Miss. Magnin (sold for $85 by alterafashion123) (R) Sharon Tate in a similar palazzo pant-suit as worn in the fabulously campy 1967 film, Valley of the Dolls.

(L) Victorian silk pleated lappet capelet c.1880 (current bid at $15) (R) Marilyn Monroe in a more ornate version, as worn in the beautiful 1957 film, The Prince and the Showgirl.

Feast your peepers . . .

I've re-vamped the ol' blog, starting with my new name, The Vintager, and a dreamy new logo to match (thanks to my talented dude, Mr. Taylor, for his mad design skillz). I'll be posting more often (promise), and have many vintaging guides to cities around the U.S., currently in the works.

But for today, i've decided to share some inspiring auction lots, spotted on time-killing sites like Live Auctioneers, and Art Fact (but beware! These sites have totally usurped my eBay addiction, ten fold). Here are some favorite items, both recently sold, and currently open for bidding;

 

All images above from the Perfume Bottles auction in NYC, on May 1st. (L to R): 19th cent. European blue crystal figural snake scent bottle (sold for $2,400. What recession?), Rose Valois figural mini-scent bottles with little fabric hats c.1950s (sold for $750), Bourday Narcisse parfum feat. a 1920s bathing beauty and wooden stopper (too cute! Sold for $300). 2nd row: Mexican Paper mache lipsticks by Gemma c.1960s (sold for $125), fabulous "Opening Night" brooch by Lucien Lelong for Mosell c.1934 (sold for $2,900), Sortilege perfume from NYC's legendary Stork Club c.1940s (sold for $250).

Above featured in the Rossini Maison de Ventes aux Enchéres (Jazz memorabilia) auction in Paris on May 15th (L to R): Rare 1920s music-hall photograph of Josephine Baker, Folies Bergére magazine c.1926-1927 featuring Josephine Baker on cover, Booklet for the Moulin Rouge of Paris performing at Harlem's famous Cotton Club in the early-1930s.



Items above were sold on May 2nd & 3rd, at a fabulous auction of items from the homes of heiress/philanthropist, Doris Duke. (from L to R): Dreamy antique italian marble allegorical figure of fortitude (sold for $225,000), celarette barrel from Rudolph Valentino's Hollywood estate, Falcon Lair (sold for $1,200), outrageously wonderful terrestrial globe of sterling silver and set with real gems (sold for $5,000). 2nd row: Hand-sewn vintage calico kitten sachets (sold for $175) 3rd Row: Mid-century shell encrusted box (sold for $325), vintage "Here I stopped" 14K gold bookmark with D.D. monogram (sold for $3,500), mid-century Fornasetti "Strumenti Musicali" plates (sold for $400).

And i'd like to bid a heartfelt adieu to several inspiring personalities that are now wearing white Grecian gowns, and playing harps while lounging on clouds . . .


Actor/Chef/Author/Muppet Show regular, Dom DeLuise, who Lizzie and I once took a memorable ride in an elevator with, on our way to the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade in the early-'80s, when out of nowhere he looked at Lizzie, screamed, then threw handfuls of party confetti into the air. Needless to say, he won our hearts immediately.

Maxime de la Falaise, a true-Renaissance woman, having been in her colorful lifetime, a high fashion model, a designer of clothing and home decor, as well as a food writer for Vogue, and a muse to designers and artists such as Yves Saint Laurent, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Andy Warhol.

Legendary prima-ballerina of the Bolshoi Ballet, Ekaterina Maximova, who will blow your mind with her otherworldly perfection in this clip of her mad-crazy fouette style, and here, where the audience goes wild for her performance in Don Quixote. And here, as an adorable, doll-like, Sugar Plum Fairy.

And Sable Starr, famous '70s groupie, punk muse, and true love of Johnny Thunders.
Photos: Mom Smackley on Flickr, Lorenzo Tricoli on Flickr

Spring-a-ding-ding.

Time to put away your woolly coats and knitted caps . . . Spring is making its grand debut! Baby buds are beginning to bloom, happy birds are chirping in the trees, and everything seems a little more Disneyland. And as the season changes, so shall I . . . because my favorite part of this time of year,  aside from the breezy sunshine and fantastical fauna, is getting to don some new frocks. Here are the Springified looks and accoutrement i'm currently daydreaming about (click images to view full-size):
 

Wear Your Love Like Heaven (above left): Maxi goddess style by Sophie Theallet (Fall '09. P.S. Call me wacky, but I always find Fall frocks to be perfect staples for a Spring wardrobe), 2nd & 3rd pics: Paul Smith (spring '09), Right: Issa (Spring '09)

 

I'm with the Glam (from left): Christian Dior (Resort '09), Gucci (Fall '08), '70s snakeskin dream platforms (spotted on eBay), Lily Cole in dreamy '70s style.

Sherbet Shazam: Halston (Spring '09), Oscar de la Renta (Resort '09), Sonia Rykiel (Fall '08)

Le Ingenue: Jazzy Yves Saint Laurent style, Goldie Hawn in Shampoo c.1974 (i'm having my hairstylist, the magical Peter Van de Velde, give me this cut, asap!), Michelle Phillips c.1970s
  

Malibu Boho (1st & 2nd above): Prettiness from Milly's Spring '09 collection (I'm dying for that white crocheted cardi). 3rd from left: Nanette Lepore (Spring '09), and Agyness in Anna Sui's perfect army parka (Spring '09)
 

Heirloom Accouterment: 1960s Borsalino felt cloche ($99 on eBay, which I sadly lost), 1950s carpet handbag by Ingber ($9.99 on eBay), 1940s dragon cuff (eBay), elephant purse by Midas of Miami (Leslie Hindman Auctions)
 
Chic Mix: Annie Liebowitz in San Francisco c.1973 (photo by Henry Diltz), Moschino Cheap & Chic (Spring '09),  '70s caftan casuals (I love the idea of going for a nature hike in nice pumps), Raquel Zimmerman in white and coral (i'm totally obsessed with this color combo).

Gallerist Glam: Erin Fetherston (Fall '08), 2nd & 3rd from left: Jaeger (Spring '09), Halston (Fall '08), Chloé (Spring '09)

Left: Matisse's Odalisque With Magnolias Right: William Eggleston c.1975
 
The White Album: Chloé (Spring '09), Ruffian (Spring '09), Paul Smith (Spring '09), Jasmine Di Milo (Spring '09)

Big Pink: Emanuel Ungaro (Spring '09), Oscar de la Renta (Spring '09), 1960s gown by Pucci for Formfit Rogers ($295 on eBay), a lovely mauve look from a 1970s knitting pattern book.

Groovy: Susan Small and Thea Porter frocks for British Vogue c.1969

Mellow Yellow: Madcap Louis Vuitton editorial from Vogue (shot by Steven Meisel), Sonia Rykiel (Spring '09), Anna Sui's ethnic chic (Spring '09), preppy perfection from J.Crew
    
Frocks-a-plenty: Viktor & Rolf (Pre-Fall '09), Christian Lacroix Couture (Spring '08), Byrdie Bell in a 1940s nightie, Louis Vuitton (Pre-Fall '09)

Naturalista: Organic by John Patrick (Spring '09), an Annie Hall inspired vibe from a '70s Seventeen mag, Charles Anastase (Spring '09)

Babydolls & Dandies: Betsey Johnson's '90s redux (Spring '09), Labyrinth lunchbox (to adorn the Betsey dress) c.1986 ($75 on eBay), a Louis Vuitton look (Fall '09, as shot by Steven Meisel for Vogue), unworn 1940s straw tilt-hat by Rightman's Millinery ($314 on eBay)

Caribbean Queen: Duro Oolowu, whos entire collection I find to be perfect (Spring '09), Christian Dior (Fall '09), Junya Watanabe's perfect nomad sandals (Spring '09), Duro Oolowu (Spring '09)

A perfect early '60s Saturday ensemb', Grace Kelly in a Mexican peasant skirt and cinch belt, and photographer Berry Berenson gracefully wrapped in a Mexican blanket.

Photos: Style.com, Corbis.com, Vogue

Slaves of New York (1989)

Even though I was only fifteen upon its release, I vividly remember all the hoopla surrounding the release of James Ivory's 1989 film, Slaves of New York (based on the best-selling book by Tama Janowitz). Every fashion mag was  declaring that it would be the greatest film of the decade, due to its stylish depiction of the Lower East Side's art scene, not to mention the inclusion of an entire Stephen Sprouse runway show (in the film Steve Buscemi plays a designer named Wilfredo, who is based on Sprouse). So it was tragic that when the film was finally released, it was greeted with scathing reviews, and a deafening thud at the box office.


Being that it is one of my favorite films ever, i've always felt it was just ahead-of-its-time, and greatly misunderstood (until more recently). Perhaps it was targeted to the wrong age-group, as every time I spotted an ad for it in the L.A. Times, I cut it out, and pinned it on my wall, hoping that one day I would be a wacky girl in a floppy hat and motorcycle boots, with a cute dog, juggling packages on the way home to a vintagey NYC apartment, where I designed things and hung-out with cool artists. I'd begged my parents to take me to see it, which sadly didn't work, as it was rated 'R', but I eventually was able to sneak it home, the moment it was released on VHS.

Every element of the film is in total funk harmony; Bernadette's portrayal of Eleanor is both whimsical and empowering, Ivory's direction is thoughtful, the cinematography is like Pop-Art, the costuming is beyond-brilliant  (thanks to Carol Ramsey and Mr. Sprouse), the art direction makes me want to re-decorate, and the No Wave-meets-'80s Pop soundtrack would have everyone at Danceteria twisting.

Watching it now, I feel it's more perfect than ever . . . a time-capsule for the end of a truly vibrant-neon cartoon decade, filled with inspired creativity born out of passion. Here are some fave Slaves images:




 

 
 
    

Bernadette (Below Left) in a scene from Slaves, wearing a furry green monster coat designed by Sprouse, (R) and Debbie Harry wearing the same coat, performing for Louis Vuitton's 2009 Sprouse Tribute soirée.

(Below Left) The cover of my hardcover copy of Janowitz's novel, and (Middle) Dianne Brill (party personality, author of the fun book Boobs, Boys, and High-Heels, and all-around bombshell), makes a brief cameo in Slaves as a sexy jogger. (R) Dianne partying with friend Andy Warhol in 1985.

(Below Left) Author Tama Janowitz, as photographed by Sprouse in the late-'80s, (Middle) Tama as photographed by Andy Warhol in 1986, (R) and Tama at  a party for Interview magazine in 2008.

And if wanting to achieve flawless Slaves style, the following pieces would be considered wise investments (after all, even cocaine was considered a wise investment in 1989!):

(Above) Cartoon couture from Jean-Charles de Castelbajac (Fall '09)

(L to R) Dolce & Gabanna (Fall '09), Norma Kamali safety-pin dress, Lacroix (Fall '09), DKNY (Fall '09)

(L to R) Dresser Johnson pop-art ring, sculptural Nina Hjorth heels, Carlos Falchi heels ($30 on eBay), zippered '80s driving-gloves.

(L to R) Sonia Rykiel (Fall '09), Rykiel (Fall '09), Alexander McQueen, Slave girl (spotted on Facehunter)

(L) It's mandatory to listen to the Tom Tom Club whilst carrying this bag. (R) Robert La Roche gallerist--specs (Made in Italy, and spotted on eBay)

(L to R) Peter Som (Pre-Fall '09), Limi Feu (Spring '09), Limi Feu (Fall '09), Wunderkind (Fall '09)

(L) Vintage Godzilla toy (it plays a small part in the Slaves storyline), (R) Catherine Bailey as shot by David Bailey in the mid-'80s, with killer Tama-style locks.

(L to R) Blumarine (Fall '09), late-'80s Thierry Mugler suit (spotted on eBay), '80s Italian trompe l'oeil rhinestone watch/bracelet, Vintage Stephen Sprouse dress

(Above) And you simply can't forget to pick-up one of these for your Soho loft (Ettore Sottsass "Carlton" room divider, produced by the Memphis Group c.1981)

Photos: bernadette-peters.com, style.com, deliciousbeauty on eBay, Fred Flare, facehunter, Resurrection

Vintage Advice from Mrs. Helen Gurley Brown.

Helen Gurley Brown was the ground-breaking editrix-in-chief of Cosmopolitan magazine for 32 years  in addition to writing several best-selling books, including the revolutionary Sex and the Single Girl in 1962 (which was made into a film starring Natalie Wood in 1964). She contributed loads to the sexual revolution of the 1960s, and her goal has always been to help women feel like sexy, powerful, independent creatures. Essentially, there would be no Sex and the City without the good ol' "Gurl". She penned many advice tomes over the years, including Having it All: Love, Success, Sex, Money, Even if You're Starting With Nothing (1982), The Single Girl's Cookbook (1969), and I'm Wild Again (2000). Now aged 86, H.G.B. is still kickin' . . . out partying in her fringed day-glo Pucci mini-dresses, and consulting for international editions of Cosmo. We should all be so bitchin' as Octogenarians.

Today, while going through my files, I came across a page from Helen's last issue at the helm of Cosmo, the magazine she made into an icon. Here are some of my fave bits from her final editor's letter:

"Self-Discipline ~ Do the rotten stuff first everyday . . . dreaded phone call, confrontation, awful work assignment. Getting the bad over with—it's called postponing pleasure—will inexorably move you along the success trail . . . truth!"

"Popularity ~ Empathy is the most important social asset you can have. Feel what it's like for them . . . How are you coming across? Talking too much? Ignoring signals of what they need? You don't have to sparkle or be beautiful. Get the vibes, listen with your soul, respond with love, humor, applause . . . You'll have a million friends. P.S. Enthusiasm doesn't hurt  . . . I love it, let' s do it!"

"Thanks for your friendship, pussycats. Be my valentine."

 

(By row) Helen celebrating the millionth copy of Cosmo in her office c.1965 (wearing Pucci, of course), Helen on the town in 1991, In her Park Ave. apt. with a stack of her bestselling books c.1965, with a favorite needlepoint pillow that reads "I love champagne caviar and cash", and "Good girls go to heaven. Bad girls go everywhere", hangin' out with Jackie Susann in 1967, cocktail hour c. 1965, 4 examples of the "Cosmo Girl look" created by Helen and photographer Francesco Scavullo,  4  of Helen's book covers.

Photos: eBay, Corbis, LIFE

All The Young Dudes.

Every-time I spy a great "mantique", it makes me sad i'm not a dude (or that i'm not my husband, who happens to be the coolest). I am always seeing fab items in boutiques, and on eBay, that make me think "if only I were a jazz listening, Playboy reading, bourbon drinking bachelor, so I could buy this for my pad." So, let's pretend for a moment that I am indeed a handsome lad, circa 1968, in search of sexy decor pieces to make the dames swoon. Here are some perfectly cheeky picks:

(L to R): '60s Hollywood Regency-style brass elephant telephone ($149), vintage sterling "anchor link" ring ($9.99), burlap Zig Zag wall hanging c.1970 ($9.99)

Antique Meerschaum pipes, some by Carl Heiss, because I would totally smoke a pipe (from $19 to $225).

All items in this row from Mantiques Modern. (L to R): 1960s Fiat showroom chairs (call for price), mid-19th cent. architect's drafting table (call for price), 1940s Abercrombie hippo bench ($8,200), which is similar to Edie Segewick's Abercrombie rhino (seen danced upon in the following '60s photo from Vogue), a photo of which I recently payed homage to (though not quite as waifishly) at a friends grandparents house in Connecticut, where I spotted a delightful mini-hippo by the same company . . .

 Now back to dude-accoutrement . . .

(L to R): 1950s Italian butler's rack (min. bid $50), mid-century plaid Bertoia chair (min. bid $650), Poster for Let's Get Lost, Bruce Webber's heartbreaking film about jazz legend Chet Baker ($90)

1970s Sterling Navajo turquoise watch cuff (Sold for $127), Antique masonic badge with double-headed eagle and crown c.1857 ($360), giant pocket watch clock from the wall of a '60s barbershop, Mister Nesbitt's Grooming Kit (for my moustache).

1970s Dow Jones ice bucket and glasses set (sold for $9.99), 1960s Raymor "Whisky" decanter (spotted on eBay), Braun SK61 radio/turntable (AKA; Snow White's Coffin) designed by Hans Gugelot c.1956 (sold for $764), W.C. Fields clothing hanger c.1967 (sold for $20)

 

Macho 1960s tiki-style carved wood decor by Witco (easily found on eBay). Check out the giant Witco sword we had adorning our last entryway in the far right photo.

Spring 2009 Prêt-à-Porter ~ Jill Stuart

There were too many glorious runway presentations this season, and i'm finally ready to profess my love for what I deem to be "the best", and what I dream to be "in my closet". Over the next month i'll be musing about all the perfect pieces that slayed my heart. But first let's ponder . . .

Jill Stuart Spring '09 Vs. Olivia Newton-John in Xanadu:

  

And though I do have some very insightful things to say about the current state of fashion, I really feel that this is the most important style site you'll ever lay eyes on.

Photos: onlyolivia.com, newyorkmag.com

Costume Party

Yikes! I know it's been too long since my last post. Blame it on one dreadful tummy flu, a trip to DC for a letterpress project, writing deadlines, friends visiting from L.A., TV pitches, book proposals, and a jaunt to Woodstock (i've been crazed, but in a good way).

But last week I was quite excited to hear that the Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum has made their archives completely searchable on the Met's site! But for those of you who are as fashion history obsessed as I, this news comes with a warning . . . once you start searching, it is nearly impossible to stop. Below are some gorgeous rarities I unearthed during my many hours browsing through the thousands of gems in this vintage treasure-trove:

(L to R) Purple coat by Zandra Rhodes c.1969 (Gifted to the Metropolitan Museum by Penelope Tree), yellow coat dress c.1969 (gift of Zandra Rhodes), Natalie Wood wearing the Zandra coat in 1970 (Corbis), purple velvet YSL party dress c.1985

House of Schiaparelli brooch c.1930s, silk and wool patchwork Elsa Schiaparelli coat c.1938, mens Schiaparelli newspaper necktie c.1935, Schiaparelli evening coat (with studded silver leather details) c.1935, metal rose neckace c.1935

Halston feather hat c.1962, Vive Le Rock tee by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren c.late '70s, Yves Saint Laurent's "Mondrian" dress c.1966, Salvatore Ferragamo rainbow platforms (kill me now) c.1938 (gift of S. Ferragamo)

Roger Vivier boots c.late 1960s, Issey Miyake rasta colored wrap c.1976, Silk dress with gold feathers by House of Givenchy c.1982, Argentinean tortoiseshell comb c.1830-1849 (all items gifts of Diana Vreeland, from her estate)

Ossie Clark ensemble c.1970-1973 (gift of "Baby" Jane Holzer), Biba bracelet c.1969, Gold Yves Saint Laurent boots c.early '70s (gift of Marina Schiano), Glam rock suit by Barbara Hulanicki c.1972

Giorgio di Sant'Angelo coat c.1971-1972, Alexander McQueen's astonishingly detailed "Oyster Dress" c.2003, detailed photo I took of the dress during 2008's Blog.Mode exhibition, Madeleine Vionnet evening gown c.1932

House of Dior necktie c.1970 (so Roxy Music!), Kenneth Jay Lane cuff c.1977 (gift of Lauren Bacall), Philip Treacy for Alexander McQueen "Chinese Garden" headdress c.2005, my photo of the headdress taken at the Blog.Mode exhibit (it is made of made of antique cork sculptures!), Metal brooch from Yves Saint Laurent's "Braque" collection c.1988 (gift of Nan Kempner)

House of Dior "Junon" gown c.1949-1950, metal thread gown by Hattie Carnegie for Madeleine Vionnet c.1937-1938, John Galliano's "Maria-Luisa (dite Coré)" gown for Dior c.1998 (gift of House of Dior), English dress c.1760
 
Giorgio di Sant'Angelo's "Natives of the Americas" ensemble c.1970, silk Valentina dress c.1952 (gift of Lillian Gish), Valentina wool (dream) coat c.1939 (gift of Lillian Gish), Thea Porter coat 1965-1969 (gift of Jane Holzer), Charles Jourdin embroidered (dream) boots c.1967 (gift of Jane Holzer)

Green velvet pumps with star clip and curled toe c.1958, beaded Evening shoes c.1961, snakeskin pumps c.1961, metallic collaged heels c.1958, hummingbird feather heels (are you kidding?) c.1960 (all shoes Roger Vivier for House of Dior)

Oh! And Happy belated Yom Kippur to all the ju-ju-bees!

My People Were Fair, and Had Sky in Their Hair.

It's Summertime, so for me, the pale Irish lass that I am, that means breaking out the Maxi dresses (as to not blind folks with my pallid leggies), and floppy hats (to shield my easily-burned mug). Luckily, I've always been a lover of exotic-flower-child-inspired bohemian garb (basically, anything that would look awesome while riding a camel, is right up my alley). So this Summer my goal is to have both a wardrobe and abode, that exude Moroccan-bazaar-meets-opium den chic.

So, here's some visual inspiration for achieving what i've dubbed the "Rajasthani-rock-'n-roll-royalty" look:



  
 

Photos: 19th cent. silk ikat robe, portrait of Marianne Faithfull (featured in the Whitney Museum's 2007 Summer of Love exhibit), 1920s Ottoman period Turkish accessories (ebay: 1860-1960), camel inkwell circa 1890-1920 (ebay: rb99redtail), 19th cent. Hungarian turquoise seed pearl necklace (ebay: gungirly), 1960s Middle Eastern vest by Jacqueline for I. Magnin (ebay: moschino69), 1970s wooden turquoise and coral bangle, Impressions of Summer shoot with model (Moira Swan?) dressed in Ossie Clark (7/'69 Brit. Vogue), Lauren Hutton in Bali (from my vintage Vogue library), ethnic 1920s dress, and purple velvet Victorian-era dress (ebay: mynoble)

So, if inspired this season to work a magical, mystical vibe, I also highly suggest burning Maroma's Opium scented incense at all times, watching the 1968 film The Guru (starring Michael York, and inspired by George Harrison's trips to Rishikesh), and listening to Ravi Shankar's Sounds of India, on heavy rotation.

   

Mr. Melody Nelson.

The first time I laid peepers on Serge Gainsbourg was while  flipping through my collection of French '60s  Vogues, and I was instantly taken by his jazzy, sleazy pin-striped style, perfectly accessorized by a cigarette that badly needed ashing, crooked nose, disheveled coif, and devilish gaze. Instantly smitten, I ran out and bought his brilliant CD Comic Strip, which has him playfully frolicking around with former paramour Brigitte Bardot, along with Jane Birkin (Serge's lover of 13 years, Charlotte's mum, actress, singer, and she of the infamous Hermés bag). It also features his controversial hit Je T'Aime . . . Moi Non Plus, which was banned by the Vatican for Birkin's sexy cooing at the end of the track, and which Casablanca Records founder, Neil Bogart later played for Italo-disco God, Giorgio Moroder, who then used it as inspiration for his Donna Summer smash, Love to Love You Baby.

It was very easy to fall in instant amour with Serge's entire musical repertoire (which consists of over 550 songs, and 30 albums), which covers just about every genre, from cabaret to African beat, from rock 'n roll to reggae . . . but my favorite of all is his darkest concept LP, Histoire de Melody Nelson, which features sinfully decadent tunes that defy categorization. French actress Isabelle Adjani (who Serge had written songs for in the '80s), perfectly describes Melody Nelson as "Musical literature". Jane B. is on the cover, dressed as the fictional freckle-faced red-headed teen-age ragamuffin, Melody, holding a monkey doll she'd had since childhood, and which she later buried with Serge, as he'd always loved it.

Gainsbourg's home on 5 bis Rue Verneuil, in Paris's 7th Arrondissement (in case you want to visit and add to the graffiti in homage to Serge that covers his front wall), is now owned by his actress/singer/fashion muse daughter, Charlotte Gainsbourg, who has left every item in the house untouched, since he passed on to Gitane-heaven from alcoholism in 1991. She has plans to turn the home into a public museum, which would have me Air France tickets faster than you can say "Bardot".

Marianne Faithfull had this to say about Serge: "He was a poet, a genius, and an egotist, the sort of person I have always got on with, and we became very good friends. Sex was one way of relating with Serge–probably his favorite way with a woman–but we had a philosophical affinity, a serious platonic friendship based on surrealism, poetry and Oscar Wilde. Serge was very interested in the spiritual content. He knew all about Rastafarianism; he knew about everything."

In Nov. of 2007, Lisa Robinson wrote a great story for Vanity Fair, about Serge's colorful legacy. Here are some of my favorite excerpts: 

"Her (Jane Birkin's) apartment, on the Rue Jacob, is a worldly display of exotic bohemianism. Paisley covered walls are adorned with hundreds of framed photos of Serge . . . stuffed rabbits wearing pearl necklaces are grouped on a table playing cards. There is a collection of majolica pottery, a huge flat screen TV, and everywhere you look, there are books–lining the shelves in her bedroom and study. And although originally designed by her and named for her, that Hermés Birkin bag is nowhere to be seen."

" He always paid his taxes early: he felt he was an immigrant–his parents were from Russia and as such he should behave correctly. He wanted shoes that felt like gloves, so I got him white Repetto ballet shoes, which he wore without socks. I bought him jewelry and encouraged him to keep 3 day stubble on his face. He sat in gilt chairs after fashion shows and picked out dresses for me–Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy . . ."—Jane Birkin

"Toward the end of this life, Gainsbourg created "Gainsbarre," a sort of outlandish, alter ego for himself that allowed him to say shocking things on television."—Francois Ravard (Serge's drinking partner, and film producer)

"Je T'Aime . . . Moi Non Plus"–which translates as "I love you, me neither"–came from a story told about Dali, who reportedly said "Picasso is Spanish–me too. Picasso is a painter–me too. Picasso is a Communist–me neither."—Nicolas and Jean-Benoit of Air

"After Serge and Jane made a movie in Yugoslavia, he bought a Rolls-Royce with cash because "it tickled him to think he was buying a Rolls with Communist money," she says. It was racing green, he had no driver's license (he said "You cannot drink and drive and I have chosen"). After using it to have someone drive up and down the Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré, he put it in a garage, where he could occasionally visit it, sit inside, and have a smoke."—Jane Birkin

"Even if you play Serge's songs in the middle of Africa, where nobody understands the words, they'll be caught. It's like when Lillian Gish said she regretted there were no more silent movies that spoke to everybody."—Jeanne Moreau

Photos: Corbis

Gonna Dress You Up in My Love.

What i've currently deemed to be "The Perfect Spring Dress", is going to be open for bidding on eBay in about 10 hrs. (seller: mynoble), and since its measurements won't suit my curvaceousness, i'm urging you to win it, and wear it with Bakelite bangles. It reminds me of Diane Wiest's fabulous vintage wardrobe in Hannah and Her Sisters, though she would've worn it with a '50s varsity jacket, a beret, and cowboy boots (see Diane below, in that great film, wearing an adorable '30s sailor top over a little denim jacket, accessorized with a beret, polka dot handkerchief, and '60s beads):
 

And here are some more of my "dream Spring wardrobe" looks:

 

Photos: '70s knitted Bargello ensemble (love the blue tights)! / Carly Simon bopping around NYC in a Victorian inspired dress, Grecian sandals, and macrame bag (early '70s) / Claire McCardell's rayon jersey "Arabian Nights" ensemb (1946) / Embroidered linen Gretel dress from Amsterdam / hot '70s leather jacket (East West Musical Instruments Company?) / '70s-Deco suit by Lee Bender for Bus Stop / Adorable early '70s ensemb with the greatest leather sack tote / canary yellow knitted cardigan with matching knee-socks! / the perfect trench-coat by Ossie Clark and Celia Birtwell (along with their cat, Percy).

Smokin' Zig-Zags.

One of my favorite things from the history of design occurred in the 1970s, when clothing designers and interior decorators reinterpreted Art Deco style, and the resulting look was like a Busby Berkeley-meets-Biba dream, with Aztec-meets-Modernist set designs by Cedric Gibbons of MGM.

The 1970s obsession with the 1920s was similar in epic-ness to the scene in the 1980 film Xanadu, where two musicals are being performed simultaneously on a giant stage, until the sets begin to merge, culminating in two decades becoming one; the first set featuring a 1940s big band-style sound and Lindy hoppers in saddle shoes, and the other set featured The Tubes rocking out New Wave tunes, surrounded by MTV babes in day-glo cat-suits. My favorite part happens half-way through the scene, when the sets, which are on rollers, come together in a glorious, swing dancing, rock 'n roll, disco bonanza.

During this inspired time in design, one very important pattern was that of zig-zags, or chevrons if you're Canadian. Here are some fabulous examples of said popular '70s-Deco graphic treatment:

Photos (by row): 1971 World of Art Deco book (picker22), Xanadu lobby card, 1976 Deco Disco LP, poster for Twiggy in the 1971 Deco classic The Boy Friend, Coat (444vintage), skirt (2tryhard), 1972-'73 Biba platforms (V&A), zig-zag bag (manifique-boutique), Biba trench (bibacollection.co.uk),  Missoni-inspired tie, Biba coat (bibacollection.co.uk), Native American Germantown rug (grogancompany), Mister Ant Cardigan (emmapeelpants) 


   

Capote on Creativity

"I've never understood the term 'creative person'. All people are creative. The difficulty is that most of us are unaware of our creative gifts; through faults of fortune, they lie undreamed of—to be discovered only, if at all, through fateful chance. For instance, as a child I knew a Gulf Coast fisherman who, direly afflicted with asthma, retired to a darkened herb-scented room. He learned to sew; gradually, he began producing scrap quilts of amazing design, a sunshine world of great primitive tapestries.

    The spirit hovers somewhere in all of us; many a shoe clerk and bus driver contain, however obscured and thwarted, a capacity for reaching exalted musical regions, for contriving delicate mathematical experiments. But of course, the professionalized creative mind neither discovers nor makes art by accident, and therein lies the difference. Most artists know what they were born to do (and are prepared to do it) at a far earlier age than, say, the average future lawyer realizes his intentions. And most artists, particularly the precocious breed, have had difficult, isolated childhoods—no doubt partially because of the creative sensibility that sets them apart. In youth, what happens to the potential artist is rather like what happens to the pearl–bearing oyster. An alien sand grain invades the oyster's shell and, once embedded there, irritates the tenant to the point of obsession, painfully pesters the the oyster until it produces a jewel. Talent, and genius as well, is like a grain of pearl sand shifting about in the creative mind: a valued tormentor."

     —Truman Capote (Cut from Playboy magazine, circa 1960s)

 

Click photos to view: Capote and his Tabby, dancing with Marilyn at NYC's fabled El Morocco club, with Debbie Harry at a party for Andy Warhol's Interview, fan-dancing at Studio 54, Truman at home, dining with screenwriter Anita Loos at El Morocco in the 1950s (all photos: corbis.com)

Knock on wood.

Being that I grew up on the West Coast, with a mom who dubbed herself a "Bloomingdales hippie" (which to her meant organically inclined, yet always smelling of Halston perfume), and a dad who was obsessed with Big Sur, and the artisans who resided there, no matter how hard i've tried to fight against it, I have been bred to love all things in the bad-'70s-burl-wood school of design.

My California upbringing has made it impossible for me not to love everything that is made out of wood. Essentially, if I am thrifting, and spot a terrible driftwood lamp adorned with tiny glass seagulls soaring on bouncy wires, it is most-likely going home with me.

Here are some woody items i've spied around the web, that totally fit my California-dreamin' mood (click photos to see images full-size):

Images: 1970s carved wooden purse, 1960s faux-bois decanter and tumblers, wooden magic-hat box from 1930 (Hadley Antiques), 1970s trompe l'oeil bookshelf purse, silhouetted Adirondacks-style lampshade, faux-bois fire logs lamp circa 1922 (cloveronwealthy on eBay).

Ballroom Blitz!

Those obsessed with the avant-garde fashion culture of the 1970s and 1980s, simply-must-experience  The Blitz Kids, where you can peruse literally thousands of rare photos and collected press clippings for New Wave inspiration.

The original Blitz Kids were the dramatically dressed personalities that frequented London's infamous Blitz club in the early '80s . . . a gang which included Boy George (who was the "hat-check-girl" at the club), Steve Strange, performance artist Leigh Bowery, Billy Idol, and milliner Steven Jones.

The site's créateur, Danilo Monzillo, is a Brazilian make-up artist, who is also fanatical '80s memorabilia collector, and self-proclaimed "New Romantics connoisseur". On his endless site, you'll discover juicy profiles on glam rock pop stars, cult hero club kids, drag queens, photographers, make-up artists, underground films, legendary night clubs, fashion designers, and oh, so much more.

Here are some of my favorite photos spotted on the site (listed by row): Donna Jordan on the cover of Paris Vogue, Boy George in Egypt, Boy George Snoopy (this photo brought back many memories, since I remembered having this doll as a child), singer Toyah, Adam Ant in his signature pirate couture, the 1989 film poster for Slaves of New York (one of my all-time faves), Jerry Hall with glamour make-up by Way Bandy, Hibiscus from performance art troupe The Cockettes, and a Vivienne Westwood design from her 1982 Buffalo collection

 

 

All photos: http://us.geocities.com/theblitzkids

 

 

A swoon a day . . .

My heart fluttered upon finding this gorgeous alphabet created by the photographer Kjell Sandved, comprised entirely of butterfly wings. Here's a sample of what you can do with the flash cards available for purchase through the link above:

Enjoy!

Cheapeaux Party

Since I moved from sunny L.A., to Manhattan last year, a pretty new thing for me is the horrid sensation of bone-chilling Winter wind numbing my ears. So my hat collection has been growing, and growing, way past the capacity of my closet shelves.

So, for a little hat inspiration, here are some fabulous tilts, toppers, and a cloche, recently spotted on eBay (not that any of these would save my ears from frostbite, but at least i'd look chic while complaining about it): 

 

eBay tip of the day: This last photo, with the psychedelic print fur-felt hat atop the striped box, is also an original Schiaparelli design, but sold for only about $10, since the seller incorrectly listed the designer name as "Schiaysarelli". So a good secret trick is to spell your desired designers name incorrectly on purpose, to see if you can score something amazing at a steal. It has worked for me many times.

Also, take a gander at  this adorable French blog about vintage chapeaux. Merci!
(Photos: marymuldoon, lambi99)